Cobbled alleys, ancient bars, flamenco and the world’s biggest gothic cathedral are just a few of the Andalucían capital’s attractions

Some of the best places in Seville are found by taking a wrong turn. Like when you stumble into a time-worn taverna peddling crisp local sherry or come across the rickety home of Seville-born painter Diego Velázquez. Which makes it all the more of a shame that many visitors to Spain’s fourth biggest city don’t venture much beyond the world’s largest Gothic cathedral. Although the cobbled streets and alleyways that surround it are worthy of close inspection, this enchanting city has much more to offer a little further afield.

Casa Vizcaíno is a classic Sevillano watering hole visited by fedora-wearing veterans and hipsters. The bar, famous for vermouth, is decorated in blue-and-white azulejo tiles, and its floor is strewn with sawdust. Behind the bartenders stand dusty sherry bottles, stubby oak barrels and framed pictures of Jesus and Mary. Most days crowds spill out into the street. But on Thursday afternoons, following the Feria flea market, things really kick into gear. Traders and punters drink vermouth (and beer) and crunch olives. Waiters chalk up tabs on the bar top, while the odd confused guiri (tourist) looks on in bewilderment.